The Small Wonders
Vanilla, painted pillars, a warm waterfall, eggs boiled in a spring, and khao soi twice a day.
Vanali Vanilla Farmฟาร์มวานิลลา
Vanilla vines under shade cloth, on the edge of town. Ask to see the flowers and leave with pods.
The bus-station pillarsเสาภาพวาดสถานีขนส่ง
Every pillar at the city bus station by the night bazaar is painted as a window onto somewhere in the province: tea hills, the golden naga, two friends on a bus. Go at seven in the morning with a coffee.
The hamsa of Thai Viwatหงส์ทองซอยไทยวิวัฒน์
A gilded hamsa, the swan of Lanna temples, round the corner from Laila Group's office. Say hello on your way to book.
Evening guardiansยักษ์ยามค่ำ
After dark the temple guardians near the night bazaar are lit violet and gold. A good walk after khao soi.
Chiang Rai Youth Orchestraวงออร์เคสตราเยาวชนเชียงราย
Violin, viola, cello, double bass and ukulele, taught to the city's children. If they are playing while you are in town, go.
Hot-spring eggs at Mae Kachanต้มไข่บ่อน้ำร้อนแม่ขะจาน
On the road south, a geyser, a row of stalls and baskets of eggs to lower into the spring. A few minutes later, breakfast.
The warm waterfall at Phu Sangน้ำตกภูซาง
A waterfall that runs warm, over orange stone, in a national park toward Phayao. You can stand under it.
The Kok Riverแม่น้ำกก
The river that runs through town. Sand beaches in the dry months, longtail boats upstream toward the hill villages.
Khao soi, twice a dayข้าวซอย
Curry noodles with a crisp nest on top, pickled greens and shallots on the side. The north's own breakfast, lunch and consolation.
The night bazaarไนท์บาซาร์
A food court under the stars with a stage for dancers, two minutes from the bus station. On Saturdays the walking street on Thanalai Road goes on for blocks.
Morning coffeeกาแฟยามเช้า
Chiang Rai grows its own coffee on Doi Chang and Doi Tung, and the cafés in town pour it every way you can think of. Laila Group runs a whole day up Doi Chang.
The Hall of Opium muralsภาพเขียนหอฝิ่น
A second look: the panels follow a hill family through the year, from sharpening the tools in March to the harvest in January.
The river through town
แม่น้ำกก ไหลผ่านกลางเมืองเจ้า